Are you Argentinian?

Crossing the border between Honduras and Nicaragua, I realized that the moment that I put on a big pack, I was a gringo. It did not matter that I spoke Spanish or was mestizo. I was a rich foreigner who spent a lot of time without working and did not know how much things cost or where things where. Sadly, they were right! On my first border crossing, I crossed at the wrong place for where I was going and got the "gringo" exchange rate. People asked me if I was Argentinian, meaning a native Spanish speaker but not from here. 15 years in the US have made me an Argentinian? I can live with that...

Nicaragua was the center of the leftist insurgencies in Central America during the 80s. You might remember the Iran-Contra scandal. The Contras were US supported forces trying to overturn the Sandinista (communist) government. The Sandinistas (FSLN) were funded by Cuba and Russia and drew their base from the Western part of Nicaragua which was the first place I visited. In the town of Esteli, there is a museum run by the mothers of the dead from the wars. The photo to the left is a striking juxtaposition of a young mother who was a rebel. This image is popular with FSLN propaganda but the reality was way more complicated. After years of war and the FSLN being in power, Nicaragua is now the second poorest country in Latin America after Haiti (Honduras is third). The FSLN turned to a political party and lost in the previous two elections. The situation did not improve with the liberal (more capitalist) party and the FSLN has just been re-elected back into power. I wish them the best.

Now my trip turns from introspection of self identity and the socio-politics of Central America to sheer playfulness. Granada is a backpacker hub with every tourist trap you could want for cheap. The image to the left is of me doing a back flip at a lagoon near Granada (Laguna de Apoyo). I need to thank Rachel (Rebecca`s sister) for teaching me to do back flips and Jessie (adrenaline junkie and photographer) for the photo. Probably my favorite photo from the trip thus far.

The key to having a great travel experience, much like life, is to share it with people you resonate with. Granada was fantastic for that. The common area of our hostel lead to the coming together of two Brits with a knack for singing, an American girl with great salsa skills, another American girl with great travel skills and a Honduran with spastic hair. They were fabulous traveling companions. Here we are at the Masaya volcano which at one point was thought to be the entrance to Hell. By the amount of sulfur coming out of it, I can see why...



My throat burned for days after the volcano. I think sulfur and water leads to sulfuric acid. It was only after a while of being in the top that somebody told us they had masks! I thought I looked like an extra from a Mad Max movie...








Having grown up with three sisters, my mom and grandma, I get along well with women, specially adventurous women who backpack around Latin America. Here are "the girls" on a night out.







The Brits were a barrel of laughs regardless where we went. On the crappy weather hike, they sang the day into a fantastic memory and a highlight with a version of Singing in the Rain bar none. When dancing, it was clear that they have British (Scottish and English) rhythm and style in their blood.









After a fantastic few days in Granada, Leanne (American with great travel skills) and I traveled together to the Island of Omotepe to see more volcanoes and stay at an organic farm. The 8 hour hike to the lake at the volcano crater and the outdoor showers were a highlight. I can now see why travelers adore Nicaragua. The next stop, Costa Rica...